How to Choose Between a Formula and Round Steering Wheel for Sim Racing

Quick answer

Buy a round wheel if you drive road cars, rally, drifting, or trucks, because you need to rotate the rim hand over hand. Buy a formula wheel if you race open-wheel or prototype cars and want thumb buttons and paddles close to your fingers. If you drive both, start with the round rim and add the formula wheel second.

Most sim racers do not need to pick a side forever. The real question is which steering wheel shape matches the cars you drive most, and whether your rig makes switching easy. That comes down to how much you rotate the wheel, where your hands sit, and how you mount it.

This guide gives you concrete rules instead of brand loyalty. It covers the practical differences between a formula wheel and a round wheel, how each one changes your driving, and when a second wheel is worth the money. It also explains how mounting hardware affects the choice, because a wheel that fits your hands but not your rig is still the wrong wheel.

What actually changes between a formula and round wheel

The biggest difference is how far your hands travel. A round rim lets you keep a consistent grip through large steering angles, which matters in rally, drifting, and low-grip cornering. A formula wheel is wider than it is tall, so your hands stay near the paddles and buttons, but the shape limits how smoothly you can shuffle-steer through big lock.

The second difference is button and paddle access. Formula rims put shifters, clutch paddles, and rotary dials within thumb reach, which suits open-wheel and prototype cars where you rarely move your hands. Round rims usually rely on paddles behind the rim and fewer face buttons, so you give up some in-car adjustment convenience in exchange for rotation comfort.

• Drive cars with lots of steering lock: round rim first.
• Drive cars where you keep hands at 9 and 3: formula rim first.
• Check whether your wheelbase accepts quick-release swaps before buying a second rim.

Match the wheel to the cars you actually drive

Be honest about your last ten sessions. If most of them were GT3, Formula, or LMP cars on a road course, a formula wheel will feel natural because your hands stay planted and you use the paddles constantly. If most were rally, drift, oval, or truck simulation, a round wheel is the practical pick because you will cross your arms and rotate past 180 degrees regularly.

A common mistake is buying a formula wheel for the look, then discovering that rally stages and drift entries feel awkward. The reverse mistake is buying a large round rim for open-wheel racing and finding the paddles too far from your fingers. Choose based on your driving, not the cockpit photos you see online.

• List your top three car classes before you shop.
• If two of three need large steering angles, start round.
• If two of three keep hands fixed, start formula.

Fit guidance: size, reach, and mounting

Wheel diameter and dish affect reach. A round rim with a deeper dish pushes the wheel closer to your chest, which can help shorter drivers but may crowd taller ones. Formula rims are typically flatter and wider, so they sit closer to the dash area and can interfere with a monitor placed low behind the wheelbase. Measure your seating position before you commit.

Mounting matters just as much. A formula-style rim often needs a wheel mount that positions the base low and angled, similar to a real open-wheel cockpit, while a round rim usually works with a standard upright mount. If you plan to swap between shapes, use a quick-release system and confirm your wheel mount accessories support the bolt pattern and reach you need.

• Sit in your rig and measure from your chest to the wheelbase before buying.
• Check that your monitor does not sit where a wider formula rim will be.
• Confirm quick-release compatibility before buying a second rim.

Where a second wheel makes sense

A second wheel is worth it if you genuinely split time between open-wheel and road or rally cars, and if your rig allows fast swaps. The cost is not just the rim; it is the quick release, the mount, and the space to store the spare. If you only race one discipline, put that money into pedals, a stiffer mount, or a better display instead.

If you do buy two, keep the round rim as your default and add the formula rim for specific series. That order protects you because the round wheel covers more driving styles, and the formula wheel becomes a focused upgrade rather than a replacement.

• Split your time across disciplines: two rims can pay off.
• Race one discipline: one good rim plus better pedals is the smarter spend.
• Store spare rims on a wall mount or shelf to avoid damage.

Decision rules for formula vs round

• Rule 1: Steering angle decides: If you regularly rotate past 180 degrees, choose round. If your hands stay near 9 and 3, choose formula. Count your last ten sessions before you buy.
• Rule 2: Car class decides: Open-wheel and prototype cars favor formula rims. Rally, drift, oval, and truck simulation favor round rims. Pick the rim that matches two of your top three car classes.
• Rule 3: Mount and reach decide: A formula rim often needs a low, angled mount, while a round rim works with a standard upright mount. Check monitor clearance and quick-release compatibility before buying a second rim. If the mount does not fit, the rim does not fit.

Parts that affect your wheel choice

• Universal Pro Inverted Pedal Mount System for Load Cell & Hydraulic Pedals: Compatible with most pedal sets including load cell, hydraulic, and standard pedals, and compatible with all Trak Racer extrusion rigs and most third-party aluminium profile rigs. Some hydraulic pedals may require additional installation or custom setup, so customers should contact the pedal manufacturer. If you run load cell or hydraulic pedals, an inverted mount can change your seating and reach, which in turn affects how close a formula or round rim should sit.
• Universal Pedal Bracket System for Inverted, Formula & GT Hybrid Pedals: Adjustable inverted, formula, and GT position pedal mounting system with a footrest and a large amount of angle adjustment on the side brackets, for Trak Racer and other extruded aluminium rigs. Pedal angle and position set your leg reach. Get that right first, then choose a wheel shape that matches the resulting seating position.
• Mount Kit for Stream Deck, Tablet, LCD Display, Button Box and More for Aluminum Extrusion Cockpits: Universal swivel mount for stream deck, displays, and button boxes, with two pivot points for full swivel, designed for DIY aluminium sim rigs with T-slot profiles as well as Trak Racer TRX, TR8 Pro and more. A formula wheel puts more controls on the rim, but a swivel mount lets you add a button box or display for cars where you still want dash information in view.

Who should buy which shape

Best for

• Drivers who mostly race GT3, formula, or prototype cars and keep hands fixed on the rim
• Drivers who want shifters, clutch paddles, and rotary dials within thumb reach
• Drivers with a low, angled wheel mount and a rig that supports quick-release swaps

Not for

• Rally, drift, oval, or truck sim drivers who need large steering rotation
• Drivers who mostly race road cars and rarely use face buttons
• Drivers whose monitor or wheel mount leaves no clearance for a wider rim

Choose the shape that matches how you steer, not how the cockpit looks in photos. Start with a round rim if you rotate a lot, start with a formula rim if your hands stay planted, and add the second wheel only when your driving genuinely splits between the two. Get your pedals and mount right first, because those set the reach that makes either wheel comfortable.