How to Clean and Maintain Your Sim Racing Pedals

Quick answer

Clean your pedals every few weeks with a dry microfibre cloth and soft brush, keeping liquids away from load cells and electronics. Check pedal springs, bolts, and cable connections monthly, then recalibrate in software after any adjustment. Most pedal faults come from dust, loose hardware, or skipped calibration, not worn-out parts.

Sim racing pedals take more abuse than any other part of your rig. Every lap you stamp on the brake, roll the throttle, and drag your heel across the plate, so dust, sweat, and grit build up where you cannot see them. Left alone, that grime changes how the pedal feels and how consistently it reads your inputs.

The good news is that sim pedal cleaning and upkeep take minutes, not hours. Whether you run a load cell brake or a simpler potentiometer set, the routine below covers what to clean, what to check, and what to leave alone.

Gather the right tools before you start

You do not need a workshop full of gear. A dry microfibre cloth, a soft-bristle brush, cotton swabs, isopropyl alcohol for metal surfaces only, and the hex keys that came with your rig will cover almost everything. A small torch helps you inspect the pedal pivot and spring area where dust hides.

Keep liquids away from load cells, circuit boards, and connector pins. If you use compressed air, hold the can upright and keep the nozzle back so you do not drive debris into bearings or sensors. A vacuum with a brush attachment is often the safer choice for loose dust.

• Never spray cleaner directly onto electronics; apply it to the cloth first.
• Photograph your wiring before unplugging anything so reassembly is quick.

Clean the pedal faces and pivot points

Start with the pedal faces. Wipe them down with a dry microfibre cloth, then work a soft brush into the grip tape or rubber texture to lift out skin cells and dust. If the faces are metal, a cloth barely dampened with isopropyl alcohol removes oily residue, but dry them immediately and keep the liquid away from any sensor wiring.

Next, clean the pivot points and the gap between the pedal arm and its housing. Dust and carpet fibres collect there and can make the pedal feel gritty or slow to return. Brush the area out, then move the pedal through its full travel by hand a few times to check for smooth operation.

• Do not soak the pedal assembly or pour liquid into pivot gaps.
• If a pedal feels notchy after cleaning, inspect for a worn bushing before adding lubricant.

Inspect load cell and spring hardware

Load cell pedal care is mostly about keeping the sensor and its mounting hardware clean and secure. Check that the load cell body is free of dust and that its bolts are snug, but do not overtighten them. A load cell measures force through deflection, so a loose mount or a crushed spacer will change the reading before the sensor itself ever fails.

For spring-based pedals, look at the spring, elastomer stack, or damper for wear, cracks, or compression set. Pedal spring maintenance is simple: wipe the spring and its seat, check that it sits straight, and replace anything that has lost its shape. If you adjust preload or swap a spring, note the change so you can recalibrate consistently.

• A brake pedal that feels softer than usual often points to a loose mount or worn elastomer, not a failed load cell.
• Keep spare springs or elastomers on hand if you race frequently.

Check wiring, connectors, and mounting bolts

With the pedals clean, trace every cable from the pedal to the wheelbase or USB hub. Look for pinched insulation, sharp bends at the connector, and plugs that have worked loose from vibration. Reseat each connector firmly and secure loose cable runs with clips or ties so they cannot snag on your seat or shoes.

Then check the bolts that hold the pedal plate to your rig. Vibration loosens hardware over time, and a pedal plate that moves even a millimetre under braking will hurt consistency. Tighten to a firm snug, not to the point of deforming washers, and recheck after your next long session.

• A intermittent signal or spike in the software often means a loose connector, not a dead pedal.
• Route cables away from moving pedal arms and sharp profile edges.

Recalibrate and test after every service

Cleaning and hardware changes alter how your pedals read, so recalibrate in your wheelbase or game software after any maintenance. Set the throttle and clutch travel first, then apply realistic brake force for the load cell. Save the profile and note the date so you can compare if the feel changes later.

Finish with a short test session. Watch for spiking, dead zones, or a brake that reaches maximum force too early. If something is off, recheck the mount and connector before you touch the calibration again. A five-minute test now saves a frustrating race later.

• Recalibrate after cleaning, not just after replacing parts.
• If readings drift mid-session, stop and check hardware before adjusting software.

Your monthly pedal upkeep checklist

1. Wipe and brush the pedal faces: Use a dry microfibre cloth and soft brush to remove dust and skin oils from the pedal faces and grip texture. Checkpoint: pedals should feel dry and grippy, not slick.
2. Clear the pivot and spring area: Brush out dust and carpet fibres around the pedal arm, pivot, and spring, then cycle the pedal by hand. Mistake to avoid: spraying lubricant into a dusty pivot, which turns grit into paste.
3. Inspect load cell and spring hardware: Check the load cell mount for snug bolts and the spring or elastomer for wear, cracks, or compression set. Checkpoint: replace any spring or elastomer that has lost its shape.
4. Reseat connectors and tighten the pedal plate: Push every cable connector firmly home, secure loose runs, and snug the bolts holding the pedal plate to the rig. Mistake to avoid: overtightening bolts and crushing washers or spacers.
5. Recalibrate and test: Recalibrate throttle, clutch, and brake in your software, save the profile, then run a short test session. Next step: log the date so you can spot drift over time.

Pedal-friendly gear from the Trak Racer range

• TR40S Racing Simulator: Pre-drilled pedal mount designed to fit all the major brand pedals, with heavier duty brackets and side-mounted wheel uprights for rigidity. A rigid, pre-drilled pedal deck means less flex under braking and fewer loose-bolt surprises during your maintenance checks.
• Bundle - Wheelbase, Wheel, Pedal Set, Shifter and Handbrake: Includes a VNM Racing Pedals 3-Pedal Set alongside a Simucube 2 Pro R2 wheelbase and Conspit 300GT steering wheel. A complete bundle gives you matched pedals, wheelbase, and shifter, so wiring and calibration are consistent across the whole rig.
• Universal Wheel Mount Plate Adapter for Asetek Wheelbases: Precision laser-cut carbon steel mount, fully adjustable and compatible with all Trak Racer wheel decks and most other simulator cockpits. If you upgrade your wheelbase later, this adapter keeps your existing deck usable instead of forcing a full rig change.

A consistent pedal maintenance routine keeps your braking repeatable and your hardware alive for years. Clean gently, check hardware monthly, and recalibrate after every change. Do that, and your pedals will reward you with the same feel lap after lap.