How to Mount Pedals to an Aluminum Profile Sim Rig

Quick Answer

Mount your pedals by fixing a pedal plate to two parallel aluminum profile rails, then bolting the pedal set to the plate with the hardware it ships with. Set the plate height and angle before tightening everything, and use T-nuts so you can slide the assembly later. If your pedals are heavy or hydraulic, add a heel rest or brace to stop the plate flexing under braking.

Mounting pedals to an aluminum profile rig is mostly about planning the plate position before you tighten a single bolt. Aluminum extrusion gives you slots that let hardware slide, so a five-minute adjustment later is possible — but only if you leave access and don't bury T-nuts behind other profiles.

This guide walks through the job in order, from checking your rig's profile spacing to routing cables and testing pedal feel. It works for most 8020-style cockpits and most pedal sets, including load cell and hydraulic models that put more force through the plate.

Before You Start: Check Compatibility and Gather Tools

Confirm the pedal plate or mounting brackets you have match your rig's profile spacing and your pedal set's bolt pattern. Most aluminum rigs use 40x40 or 40x80 profile for the pedal deck, and most pedal sets use M6 or M8 mounting holes. If the plate holes and pedal holes don't line up, you need an adapter plate rather than drilling new holes.

You'll want a hex key set, a tape measure, a spirit level or phone level, and a marker. A ratchet with the right socket speeds things up if your bolts are M8. Keep the pedal manufacturer's hardware — mixing bolt lengths can bottom out in a blind hole and strip threads.

• Lay out every bolt and bracket before you start so you don't discover a missing T-nut halfway through.
• Photograph your current setup if you're replacing pedals, so you can match the old position.

Step 1: Position the Pedal Plate on the Profile

Slide T-nuts into the two profile rails that will carry the pedal plate. Set the plate on top and start each bolt by hand — two or three turns is enough to hold it while you check position. Don't tighten yet; you want the plate to slide so you can set the fore-aft distance to match your leg length.

A common mistake is mounting the plate too far forward. Sit in the seat with your wheel in place, then move the plate until your brake pedal sits roughly under the ball of your foot with a slight knee bend. Mark the profile with a marker or tape so you can return to that spot.

• Checkpoint: with your heel on the deck, you should be able to reach full brake travel without locking your knee.
• If your rig has a fixed seat position, adjust the plate instead of moving the seat.

Step 2: Set Height and Angle Before Final Tightening

Pedal angle changes how much force you can apply smoothly. A flatter plate suits heel-and-toe and road-style braking; a steeper plate suits formula-style seating where you push more horizontally. Adjust the plate height on the vertical profiles, then set the angle using the plate's slotted holes or an angled bracket.

Tighten the four main plate bolts gradually in a cross pattern rather than one at a time. This keeps the plate square to the profile and stops it twisting. Once snug, check the plate is level side to side with a spirit level — a tilted plate makes one pedal feel different from the other.

• Mistake to avoid: overtightening one corner first, which pulls the plate out of square.
• Recheck angle after tightening; aluminum plates can shift a degree or two as bolts clamp down.

Step 3: Bolt the Pedals to the Plate

Set the pedal set on the plate and align the mounting holes. Start all bolts by hand before tightening any of them, so you don't cross-thread. For load cell or hydraulic pedals, use the reinforcement hardware the pedal maker supplies — some sets include a brace that ties the brake pedal to the plate or to a second profile.

Tighten the pedal bolts in a diagonal pattern, working up to firm rather than maximum torque. If the pedal body is aluminum, over-tightening can crush the mounting ear. Check the brake pedal doesn't rock when you press it; any movement means the plate or the pedal base is flexing.

• Checkpoint: press the brake hard and watch the plate edge. Visible flex means you need a thicker plate or an extra brace.
• Leave the throttle and clutch slightly looser than the brake if the pedal maker allows it — they see less force.

Step 4: Route Cables and Add a Heel Rest

Run USB and sensor cables along the profile and secure them with adhesive clips or Velcro. Keep cables away from the pedal mechanism and from any moving parts of the rig. Leave a small service loop near the pedals so you can slide the plate without pulling a connector.

A heel rest or heel plate stops your foot sliding under the pedals and gives you a consistent reference point. If your rig doesn't include one, a short piece of profile or a flat plate bolted across the front works. This matters most with load cell pedals, where a stable heel position improves repeatability.

• Mistake to avoid: zip-tying cables tight to the profile where they can chafe against a bolt end.
• Label the pedal USB cable if you run multiple USB devices into a hub.

Step 5: Test, Adjust, and Re-Torque

Sit in the rig and run a few laps or a calibration routine. Check that full brake travel is reachable, the throttle doesn't bind, and no bolt has loosened. If a pedal feels spongy or the plate creaks, stop and inspect before continuing.

After the first session, re-check the plate and pedal bolts. Aluminum and steel expand and settle differently, and new installations often need a second pass. Keep the hex keys nearby for the first few weeks so you can nip up anything that moves.

• Checkpoint: a 10-minute session is enough to reveal most flex or loosening issues.
• Re-torque after the first week, then check monthly if you race often.

Pedal Mounting Steps at a Glance

1. Dry-fit the plate and pedals: Slide T-nuts into the profile, set the plate, and place the pedals on it without tightening anything. Checkpoint: all holes line up before you commit to a position.
2. Set fore-aft position and angle: Sit in the seat and move the plate until your brake pedal sits under the ball of your foot with a slight knee bend. Mistake: setting position from a standing measurement instead of seated reach.
3. Tighten the plate in a cross pattern: Snug the four main plate bolts gradually, then recheck level side to side. Checkpoint: plate stays square and doesn't twist as bolts clamp down.
4. Bolt the pedals down: Start all pedal bolts by hand, then tighten diagonally to firm rather than maximum torque. Mistake: over-tightening aluminum pedal ears and crushing the mounting point.
5. Route cables and fit a heel rest: Secure USB and sensor cables with a service loop, and add a heel plate if your rig lacks one. Checkpoint: no cable is tight against a bolt end or moving part.
6. Test and re-torque: Run a session, check for flex or creaks, then re-check every bolt after the first week. Next step: adjust pedal angle or add a brace if the plate still flexes under hard braking.

Products That Help With Pedal Mounting

• Conspit CPP V2 EVO 3 Pedal Set – Dual-Stage Hydraulic Sim Racing Pedals: Engineered from race-grade CNC-machined 6061-T6 aluminium alloy with a dual-stage hydraulic system and full adjustability across all pedals. A heavier, adjustable pedal set rewards a solid plate and careful angle setup, because you can fine-tune each pedal after mounting.
• VNM H-Pattern/Sequential Shifter Bundle – 3-Pedal Set & Dual-Mode Shifter: Bundles the VNM 3-Pedal Set with the VNM Shifter (H-Pattern and Sequential) as a combined control package. If you're mounting pedals and a shifter together, plan the plate and shifter positions at the same time so cables and hardware don't conflict.

Mounting pedals to an aluminum profile rig comes down to position first, torque second. Get the plate where your legs actually want it, keep the hardware accessible, and re-check bolts after the first few sessions. If the plate flexes under braking, add a brace or a thicker plate before you blame the pedals.